A PINCH and a punch for the first day of the month. White rabbit. No returns.
Greetings dudebros. It’s been a little while since I’ve updated you about what I’ve been up to, and for that I apologize. But it’s been really hard to drag myself away from the beach and the hammock to dust off my computer to write a new post. Ha, sorry.
I’m currently living in a tent in a surf camp in north Peru. I’ve been here for nearly two weeks now, and am locked in ’til around the 20th of June I think (although I’m thinking of now staying five or six weeks here all up because once I head north there’s basically no more surfing on the South America leg of my trip). The waves here have been insane, and super-consistent and I’m starting to realise the town I’m staying at has a bit more history and a story to tell than what I first thought. But I’ll write a decent post on that soon.
I just thought I’d share with you this neat video (see up top) of Gold Coaster Dan Bennington shredding on the knee. I watched the clip a couple weeks before I got to Peru – the land of the long left pointbreak – and it got me so excited to dropknee (I’m goofy-footed you see) I almost wee’d my pants.
Dropknee is an often misunderstood form of waveriding you don’t see that much in the bodyboarding mags these days. But its so much fun and really functional when done properly that I actually much prefer it to lying down. Plus I kinda like doing something and being a part of something that’s a little different and against the grain (I know right, I’m so non-conformist). Up until a few days ago when a Puerto Escondido-esque slab started working out the front of the surf camp , I’d say I’d got up dropknee on about 85 per cent of my waves in Peru. I reckon I’m gonna start surfing a standup a bit more when I get back home (mainly when the waves are shitty), because I want to get good at all forms of waveriding, but there’ll always be a time and place to DK for me.
P.S. I also caught wind of this vid (below) recently, featuring Aussie expat Simmo Murph absolutely charging El Fronton in the Canary Islands (one of the heaviest waves in the world) on the knee. I met Simmo in Mexico in 2009 and am hoping to have a wave and some beers with him near his north Spain home in late August/September. A radical video.