WEDGES are really fun. The swell has been small here the past few days and conditions have been perfect for this little right-hand wedge a short walk from the surf camp. For those of you not surfing-inclined, a wedge is created when an approaching wave reflects off something (e.g. a jetty, or in this case a rocky point), which creates a second wave. The reflected wave meets up with the following wave of the set, forming a peak perfect for getting barrelled or hitting the lip. While it hasn’t been anything groundbreaking, it’s been super fun and will help tie me over ’til there’s some more swell. Plus it’s refreshing surfing a right-hander in Peru – the land of the long reeling left.
I will write something more substantial about this place soon. I’ve got another two or three weeks here before I head north through Ecuador and Colombia. Until then I’ll just be surfing, reading and hanging out. There’s a good little family we got going here, consisting of a bunch of Aussies, Peruvians, a couple Kiwis, two Americans, a Spaniard, a Brit, a Frenchman, a South African, an American, a Morrocan and probably a few more I can’t think of off the top of my head.
Today a Jay Adams-looking cat rocked up and we breakfasted with him and his Aussie mate while they waited for their rooms (tents) to be set up. He was born in Italy, where he lived until he was 17, and by the sounds of it has seen and done some crazy shit. He told us about his life as an artist in New York where drugs almost killed him and showed us the scars on his arm from those days. He also told us about surfing Nias, west Sumatra, back in the 80s and diving with Great White Sharks in South Australia. He now lives in Huanchaco in central Peru. Just when you start getting ideas in your head about settling down a bit, you meet a dude like this and more travel sounds like the cooler option.