AS A grom I used to love making surf vids. When I was about 13 years old there was a core group of four of us that’d surf together. We’d always try to con one of our parents who’d take us down to Victor Harbor, an hour drive south from our home in Adelaide, South Australia, into filming our sessions with my camcorder so we could edit these crappy little videos. ‘Carn Dad you’re just going to be sitting around waiting anyway, you may aswell be filming,’ we’d say. It worked some of the time.
The videos were pretty funny. The first finished product was called, ‘Us – A Video Project’, while the second one was, ‘Brighton Skeg Dogs’. The title of the latter referred to an incident in our hometown of Brighton when we were walking home from the beach with our boards and some homie g started yelling out of his car, ‘Yo yo yo, Brighton Skeg Dogs!’ and made out that he was about to chase us. We freaked out and sprinted away through the local primary school, later laughing about it and telling each other how we weren’t even scared. The quality of the surfing/bodyboarding in the movies was super shitty and the editing even worse, but they’re good to look back on and have a laugh.
When we got a bit older and got our licences and cars it was up to us to film each other if the vids were to continue. We tried in vain to get some footage together but whenever the surf got good no one wanted to be sitting on the beach watching it through the screen of the camcorder. The result was a 10 or so minute video aptly titled ‘Small Wave Syndrome’, which I hastily threw together when I was bored one day. The period over which the video was filmed was probably about four years, and included a couple of Indo trips where we’d scored the best waves of our lives up until that point. But still the video only included a handful of onshore sessions around Victor Harbor and it had the meagre running time of 10 minutes. My dream to make a gnarly, high-performance, artistic surf and bodyboard film was dead.
Fast-forward to 2011 and we’re four months deep into a South American trip, in which we’ve had a video camera (not mine this time) at our disposal once more. And as expected, the gnarly sessions – the ones with a bit of size or barrels have gone undocumented. Who wants to sit on the beach when it’s pumping? But we did pull out the camera and film three sessions last month during our stay at Lobitos, north Peru. The waves were small and onshore but there was no one out but us and it was good fun. Here’s the resulting video of my waves – two sessions on a bodyboard (one dropknee sesh, one lying down) and one sesh trying to ride a standup (a fish). Still trying to work out how to turn those things…