MY head is farkin caning right now. I just woke up and it’s light out so I can’t get back to sleep. I’m still drunk. I have a mild headache but I figure if I stay awake I’ll avert the inevitable hangover. You know how if you stay awake your drunkness slowly dissipates until you’re sober, feeling shitty but not half as bad as you would be if you’d gone to sleep? Does that even make sense?
I thought I’d write something on here to let you know what’s the haps, since my last few posts have just been videos and shit (although there is a little drunk video above in this post, which I found on my mate’s camera this morning). They haven’t really delved into my actual comings and goings and I’d like to think some of you out there are interested in my movements.
So, where am I? That would be Montañita, Ecuador. It apparently has some of Ecuador’s best waves but it’s been mostly flat since we’ve been here (nine nights), save for one sick session the second day I got here. I paddled out to the town’s marquee wave, a right-hand point, early on a Sunday morning and Montañita is a party town so I guess everyone was just hungover and not surfing? I dunno, but there was no one out but me and I got a bunch of ledgy head high waves, even coming out of a deep little tube. I just counted on my hands and I’ve now been barreled in 10-and-a-half countries! Disclaimer: I went surfing in Canada but only managed a head-dip, I wouldn’t claim it as a full barrel.
This place is sooo similar to Kuta in Bali – it’s got a beachie that gets good on its day, which occupies a mix of kooks trying their hand at surfing and local rippers who can bust big reverse airs off 1ft waves. There seems to be no middle ground. It’s busy tourist-filled streets are dotted with crew selling fake Ray Bans and shit. It’s similar in other ways but I can’t remember right now. It’s funny because during the day the streets are also filled with these travelling hippies with fucking weird half dreadlock mullet things and hot hippie girlfriends who sell their handmade jewellery and paintings etc. to the hordes of tourists. But then at night the hippie vibe is gone and replaced with crew who party and take heaps of coke and grind each other grotesquely in bars to fucked out music that makes me wanna shoot myself.
The other shitty thing about this place has been the weather. This time of year the clouds are out. For good. It’s been gloomy and overcast the entire time we’ve been here and I’ve found it’s creating a shitty vibe. I’m not usually one to harp on or care about the weather but this perpetual grey is starting to fuck me off. Montañita would be cool when the sun’s out and there’s swell.
Yesterday, after realising I wouldn’t be surfing for eight weeks if I left here this week and went overland to Colombia as planned, I impulse-purchased a plane ticket to Panama. I’m going solo, it could fuck up my budget a bit, and I know absolutely nothing about the country but I’ll be there tomorrow night. I plan to stay somewhere there with waves for a month or so, then jump on a sailboat and cross through the San Blas Islands to Colombia to spend my last couple of weeks in South America with friends. My friend Sam said the San Blas Islands are one of the best things he’s ever done and he knows his shit. The only question now is do I surf the Pacific or Caribbean side?
So there you go, now you know what’s up.