ONE of the most radical things I’ve been lucky enough to experience through my travels is getting to see and surf waves I’d only previously seen in videos and magazines. Desert Point, Puerto Escondido, El Gringo and Mundaka are a few of the big-name spots I’ve ticked off the ol’ bucket list in the past few years and they’ve all lived up to expectations in terms of epic-ness and heart-in-your-mouth barrels. It’s a pretty sweet feeling paddling out to a spot you’ve heard so much hype about and drooled over for ages, and if you get a good one you can’t wipe the smile off your face for days. I’m currently in Nazaré, Portugal – a town with a wave so heavy I’ve heard it compared to Mexico’s Puerto Escondido and Mavericks in North California. Apparently an underwater canyon (one of the largest in the world), a geomorphological accident (I’m not gonna pretend to know what that means), leads Atlantic waves straight to this spot Praia do Norte almost without obstacles. This creates waves of unusual size compared to the rest of the Portuguese coast. It’s super massive and onshore today however and I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t a little bit relieved at the conditions keeping me indoors watching cable instead of being really scared in frigid waters.
On the topic of scary waves, last week I found an old copy of Aussie bodyboarding rag Movement Magazine, featuring a story about Michael Novy scoring a heavy-as-shit reef in north Chile. The background in one of the sequences rang a few bells and I realised it could be a wave I sat and watched from the safety of shore back in April. I only saw it (arguably) rideable once, a local ripper told me it’s rarely surfed because it’s too nuts. Anyways, I had a look through my Chile photo album and found two videos I took of the chaos on my shitty camera. It’s hard to tell but take my word, shit is big and gnarly (Novy is da man). Don’t you wish you had the balls to tackle something like that? Sigh, I think I’m forever destined to be a kook. But hey, at least I’m having fun. Pointless post, but I’m bored and thought I’d share. We’re heading north to Porto tomorrow. Amsterdam beckons on Thursday. Seeya.
More pics from this morning