Tag Archives: videos

Changes

Current location: Porto. Photo: Mildred.

THE winds of change are upon us friends. Save for the south of Chile and Argentina in March, the weather I’m experiencing now in Portugal is the coldest I’ve faced in my nine months or so away (and it’s not even that cold, yet). The singlets and flip-flops have been packed away for good, traded for layers of warm clothes and umbrellas (actually the flip-flops are sitting in a dumpster somewhere in the south of Portugal somewhere cos I threw them out after stepping on a football-sized dog poo). My snowboard jacket has made its first appearance – in anticipation of harsh European winter temps – since hitting the slopes in British Columbia last year. The other major change of late is my hair. I traded in my luscious semi-blonde shoulder-length locks for an army-standard buzz-cut, the kinda haircut you can set your watch to (thanks Mildred). I look a little less like a hobo, and have been receiving 47 per cent less offers for drugs per day, which is good although the noggin is now a bit colder in the surf. I was trying to think of other stuff that had changed in my world but couldn’t think of much. I’ll undergo some major life changes in the months to come, and surely I’ve changed a lot over the past nine months but right now none are apparent to me. Plus you don’t wanna hear that shit. Continue reading

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Balls

Praia do Norte, Nazaré, on a good day. Would you go? Photo: ibaworldtour.com

ONE of the most radical things I’ve been lucky enough to experience through my travels is getting to see and surf waves I’d only previously seen in videos and magazines. Desert Point, Puerto Escondido, El Gringo and Mundaka are a few of the big-name spots I’ve ticked off the ol’ bucket list in the past few years and they’ve all lived up to expectations in terms of epic-ness and heart-in-your-mouth barrels. It’s a pretty sweet feeling paddling out to a spot you’ve heard so much hype about and drooled over for ages, and if you get a good one you can’t wipe the smile off your face for days. I’m currently in Nazaré, Portugal – a town with a wave so heavy I’ve heard it compared to Mexico’s Puerto Escondido and Mavericks in North California. Apparently an underwater canyon (one of the largest in the world), a geomorphological accident (I’m not gonna pretend to know what that means), leads Atlantic waves straight to this spot Praia do Norte almost without obstacles. This creates waves of unusual size compared to the rest of the Portuguese coast. It’s super massive and onshore today however and I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t a little bit relieved at the conditions keeping me indoors watching cable instead of being really scared in frigid waters. Continue reading

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Lisbon & Sintra

A castle thing. Europe is chock-full of them you know. We went to this one (Pena National Palace) in Sintra, Portugal and I took a photo of it (the one I'm captioning right now).

FEARINENGLISH is back on European soil folks. After what some might call a whirlwind three weeks in Morocco we jumped on a plane from Marrakesh on Wednesday, stopping in Madrid for a few boring hours before landing in Lisbon, Portugal, sans-passport stamp of course (damn you Schengen Agreement). We’ve had the classic tourist shoes on the past few days, walking around with our heads upturned bumping into stuff and taking heaps of photos of things. We went to what I read is the oldest bookstore in the world (I bought a Rudyard Kipling novel), strolled through an epic flea market, had some beers on a big hill overlooking the city with a cool local bodyboarder and went to check out a couple of films at the city’s annual documentary festival (one was about the Rwandan genocide, the other was about the death penalty in America, both films were good). Today we caught a train to nearby Sintra, home to some beautiful UNESCO World Heritage listed castles and palaces and junk, as well as one of the world bodyboarding tour’s annual events. Tomorrow we’re off to meet my friend Dan (of Premier Mousse fame) and another Adelaide fella who’s currently living in Europe, to scour the coast for waves. Take a look at some highlights from last week’s WCT surfing comp, which was held just north of here, and you’ll see why I’m so excited I may just wee my pants. Continue reading

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The list

Surf spots in South America. Photo courtesy of Surftripmaps.com

I SCAN a lot of travel sites and blogs when I’m fucking around the internet. One thing I’ve noticed from this online trawling is that lists, particularly the rampant ‘top ten’ style ones are one of the worst kind of post a blogger can put up on their site. Derision from the online community comes from the fact that these kinds of posts don’t usually offer any real insights. Most of the time the list post faux pas is simply the result of the author’s unimaginative, uncreative mind and their person’s complete lack of having anything interesting or worthwhile to say. But they sure are easy to write. And on that note here’s my list of the top 11 best waves I’ve surfed in Latin America: Continue reading

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Photo of the week

Photo of the week - what I want some more of, moody Montanita beachie, Ecuador. Couple days ago.

THE SURF is super lame right now so the boys and I have been chillaxing to the absolute max the past few days. I’ve got that much time on my hands I’ve decided to implement a new weekly post on the blog. If you haven’t gathered from this post’s title it’s called ‘Photo of the week’ and if you’re not a massive idiot then you’d realise once a week I’ll be putting up a photo up on the site I’ve deemed to be worthy for your eyes. I guess most of the time it’ll be a photo of something pretty or something cool or funny which happened that week, but occasionally if it’s a slow newsweek I’ll maybe just put up a pic of some shit from my former travels. I don’t care it’s my blog I’ll do what I want. Ya dickhead. I guess it’s Friday in Oz right now, so yeah, I’ll put up a new picture every Friday. More stuff click here > Continue reading

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Divertido video

Heading out for a wave with my crew cut back in the day, Waitpinga Beach, South Oz.

AS A grom I used to love making surf vids. When I was about 13 years old there was a core group of four of us that’d surf together. We’d always try to con one of our parents who’d take us down to Victor Harbor, an hour drive south from our home in Adelaide, South Australia, into filming our sessions with my camcorder so we could edit these crappy little videos. ‘Carn Dad you’re just going to be sitting around waiting anyway, you may aswell be filming,’ we’d say. It worked some of the time. Continue reading

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Kids

HERE’S another video of some grom absolutely ripping on a skateboard. If you haven’t been reading the blog lately (let’s face it that’d be most of you), I recently put up a link of a video of another grom – 13-year-old Whistler local Braedon Wheeler – doing things on a skateboard I’ll never dream of doing. He also blows up on skis and the snowboard. And look at the blonde locks on this Curren kid (in the above video). With his mad skills and boyish charms in a few years he’s gonna be beating away hordes of young girls with a stick. Meanwhile I’m here being scared of 5ft waves and simply beating away at something else. Continue reading

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